Bark Williams Booth

1- 3PM

I’ll be answering canine behavior & training questions. Free!

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact:          Dee Green

310-227-6785

PackLeader@BalancedDogs.com

K-9 DEMONSTRATION AND VENDOR FAIR

AT SANTA MONICA COLLEGE SATURDAY, MAY 18, 2013

FEATURES LOCAL DOG BEHAVIOR SPECIALIST

AVAILABLE TO ANSWER QUESTIONS

Santa Monica, CA … Following a highly successful event last year, the LA County Police Canine Association (https://www.lacpca.com/) returns to Santa Monica College on Saturday, May 18th, from 1 to 5 p.m. for a police K-9 demonstration and information fair. See K-9 and S.W.A.T. demonstrations of various crime fighting scenarios rarely observed by the general public.

On hand to answer questions and offer free advice regarding dog behavior and training is Santa Monica based canine behavior specialist, Dee Green of Balanced Dogs, who’s been improving relationships between dogs & humans on the Westside since 1997. Green will be joining the team at the Bark Williams booth during the Vendor Fair. Look for her “Ask the Behaviorist” banner from 1 to 3 p.m.

The 14th Annual Police K-9 Demonstration and Vendor Fair is conducted by the Los Angeles County Police Canine Association at Santa Monica College-Corsair Stadium. The stadium is located south of Pico Blvd. between 16th & 17th Streets; you will be directed to parking.

The Vendor Fair starts at 1 pm. K-9 and S.W.A.T. demonstrations take place at 3 p.m. This is the largest Police K-9 and S.W.A.T. demonstration in Los Angeles County. LACPCA members are dedicated to serving and protecting the public and have a common goal of making our community a better, safer place to live and work.

- Diane Rich, “Book Review: People Training for Good Dogs”

I just ordered People Training for Good Dogs: What Breeders Don’t Tell You and Trainers Don’t Teach, based on the quote above, and several others mentioned in Diane Rich’s review. Few in my industry are willing to be that kind of candid. I look forward to reading more.

This quote resonated with me because I currently have a 4.5 month old, 15lb, high-spirited, highly confident terrier(?) mix client in Santa Monica. Despite her human seeking professional help with puppy’s behavior from the week she brought her home (6 weeks ago), the pup is a nightmare on leash, having regular accidents in the house, and mouthy. How is this possible?

The puppy spends 4-6 hours a day with a “puppy sitter,” who walks her 2-4 times a day. The day we introduced the puppy to her front-attachment harness, I completed a leash walking session with the puppy sitter specifically so she would be able to reinforce what the owner’s doing. Earlier this week the sitter was caught red-handed (pun intended) walking with the puppy straining at the end of the leash, stopping or moving whenever, where ever the puppy pleased. We have no idea what’s going on in the house (no nanny cams), but I’m comfortable supposing it’s a comparable “free-for-all,” as the owner put it.

In 6 of the most formative weeks in this dog’s life, the sitter by default taught the puppy to pull on the leash, refuse to cooperate when she’s not getting her way, and jump on everyone she gets close to. These are behaviors that now have to be unlearned, in addition to the desired behavior being taught and reinforced, because this puppy sitter thinks puppies should be treated like puppies (read: indulged)? That’s lazy, irresponsible, and professionally negligent, from my perspective.

I don’t expect sitters or walkers to be behavior professionals, I expect them to follow through when they say they will, or disclose the fact that they’re unwilling or unable to do so. Don’t leave the puppy’s person thinking everything they’re doing is failing, or that there’s something physically wrong with their precious bundle of milk teeth & fur.

Bottom line: Choose who influences your dog carefully, and be willing to hold them accountable.

Instead of a picture of Bret strolling along Santa Monica beach, or watching the sunset from Palisades Park, I received the picture on the left: A dog napping in a crate (airline kennel) inside anywhere, USA. This scene is worthy of being documented and shared, I suspect, because I was the only one who believed it would ever happen. I’m thrilled it only took a couple of weeks, but I was confident a den would be appreciated by Bret. Dogs are den animals. Having access to a den is nothing short of therapeutic for many of them, when they’re introduced and used properly.

I initially recommended a crate for Bret so he would have his own “den” to retreat to, when things get overwhelming in his new life (he was recently adopted). Dogs are hardwired to seek small, confined spaces when they’re scared. Urban dogs often hide under beds or tables, behind sofas, or in bathrooms or closets. Having a dedicated, comfortable, consistently safe place they can depend on is very comforting to dogs, in my experience.

As the picture shows, the door to Bret’s crate isn’t attached. He has no house training issues, no problems with chewing, destruction, or barking, so confinement is largely unnecessary. So far, Bret hasn’t shown distress when he’s alone, only when new people or other disruptions enter his space.

Until he trusts his humans to protect him, and he’s comfortable in busy environments, attaching and closing the door when guests are expected helps Bret learn to relax under a variety of conditions, and keeps everyone safe from misunderstandings. Over time, Bret can become desensitized to the stimulation, and conditioned to not react, or to respond differently. Once he’s no longer overwhelmed, Bret’s brain can make new associations, and create new behavior patterns outside of the crate.

Bret may always benefit from having access to a den, but hopefully he won’t always have to be confined when guests arrive. Only Bret can determine if or when that’s realistic for him.

In addition to being therapeutic for dogs, having a comfortable, secure place they’re trained to enter on command and relax makes living with dogs easier. Crates are in daily use in my house. I confine some dogs for meals, others when I’m going out. When I’m home, the dogs randomly nap, play, and retreat from other dogs in there, with no encouragement from me.

From a safety standpoint, if you have to evacuate to a shelter for any reason, having crates increases your options for staying with your pets. One crate per domestic animal is commonly recommended in emergency preparedness guidelines.

Bret has gone from “hating” his crate to voluntarily napping there, in 2 weeks. That’s a choice he clearly made on his own but couldn’t have, if the crate/kennel/den wasn’t available to him.

Wishing you many happy naps to come, Bret!

When leashed walking has to happen with a dog that’s uncomfortable in wet or windy weather, I recommend minimizing the time you’re out, especially if a dog is new to the home, the handler, or the environment. Take regular bathroom breaks, on-leash even in their own yard, if that’s what it takes, but quickly return indoors as soon as they’ve completed their business.

If a dog freezes (“shuts down”), runs from the door or leash, hides under furniture or in closets, it’s time to speak with a behavior professional. Continuing to push a puppy or adult dog to a state of extreme fright will often make it harder to do (increasing the likelihood of indoor “accidents”), and can negatively impact your relationship.

Puppies can learn about rain, wind, and snow through play time, walks, or ball chasing, even 15 or 30 seconds at a time.

Don’t hesitate to use high-value treats to introduce a new experience, or create a new, positive association. Use treats intermittently, once the behavior’s established, to avoid a dog who’ll only work for food.

Early, positive exposures to all weather conditions help raise an adaptable adult dog, that takes it all in stride.

End your adventure with a gentle towel massage. Go slow and enjoy this bonding time. When toweling-off is a treat, a dog is more likely to come running to you with muddy paws, rather than the couch.

The 5 year old walks in and immediately wants to hold the puppy that I’m 10 minutes into a session with. I tell her “no.”

Kid pulls dining chair within 3 inches of mine, facing me, kicking my shins and knees as she clambers on board.

Twenty minutes or so later, after near constant begging/demanding/complaining from kid, I tell her she can sit on the floor with the puppy. Kid & puppy drop to the ground, and pup immediately climbs on kid’s leg. I quietly remove puppy’s paws and softly place them on the floor, saying “don’t let her put her paws on you,” as I do this. Two seconds later kid silently returns paws to her daisy-print-covered leg. After digesting the fact that I’ve just been dissed by a 5 year old, I return the paws to the floor.

Kid says “you’re not the boss of me.” I respond “I’m the boss of this dog.” Kid asks “why?” I say “it’s my job.” Kid has no retort.

I explain to the adult in the room that paws on a kid can confuse any size dog, at the beginning of their relationship. If you want a puppy (who’ll become an adult) that respects a small child’s boundaries, rather than nips, jumps on, or pulls their hair or clothes, then teach puppy to respect kid, first. Expand privileges as puppy demonstrates regard for the house rules and boundaries.

It’s easier to teach a new behavior than it is to correct a bad habit.

I tell kid to wrap her legs around the puppy, then hug her while she sits on the floor next to her. Kid enthusiastically complies. Puppy nuzzles in, licking kid’s chin. Kid’s giggles & puppy’s rapt attention of kid confirm: everybody’s happy.

I call that a victory.

Some 500 dogs and nine cats may have died after eating chicken jerky pet treats made in China, according to updated complaints logged by federal veterinary health officials.

A new tally of reports filed with the Food and Drug Administration shows the agency has received 2,674 reports of illness involving 3,243 dogs, including 501 deaths. The agency also has received reports of nine illnesses in cats, including one death, the FDA said.

That’s up from an estimated 2,200 reports of illness, 360 dog deaths and one cat death reported last summer. So far, though, FDA has not been able to confirm a link between the treats and the ailments.

The new figures come less than a week after two of the largest retailers of pet chicken jerky treats issued voluntary recalls of several popular brands after New York state agriculture officials detected unapproved antibiotics in the products.

Nestle Purina PetCare Co. recalled its popular Waggin’ Train and Canyon Creek Ranch brand dog treats, and Del Monte Corp. officials recalled their Milo’s Kitchen Chicken Jerky and Chicken Grillers home-style dog treats from shelves nationwide.

In addition, two more firms have recalled their treats as well, including Publix stores, which recalled its private brand Chicken Tenders Dog Chew Treats and IMS Pet Industries Inc., which withdrew its Cadet Brand Chicken Jerky Treats sold in the U.S.

The voluntary recalls effectively remove the pet treats from store shelves nationwide, but FDA officials say they still haven’t solved the mystery of what’s been making animals sick. They say tests by the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets found trace amounts of antibiotic residue, but that the levels don’t pose a threat to animals or people.

“Based on the FDA’s review of the NYSDAM results, there is no evidence that raises health concerns, and these results are highly unlikely to be related to reports of illnesses FDA has received related to jerky pet treats,” the agency said in a statement.

The New York agriculture agency used a common test to detect chemical contaminants in foods, said Joe Morrissey, a department spokesman. They relied on liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry, or LC-MS/MS. The tests revealed four antibiotics not approved for use in poultry in the U.S. and one antibiotic that may be used, but is limited to nearly undetectable limits in the finished product.

FDA officials will continue to investigate animal illnesses tied to jerky treats. Since 2007, the agency has warned consumers several times that jerky treats are not necessary for pet health and that eliminating them won’t harm animals.

The agency last spring inspected five Chinese plants that made jerky treats. Officials weren’t allowed to take samples for testing. Now, inspection reports released about the fifth site, Yantai Aska of Yantai, China, shows that plant officials falsified records regarding imports of glycerin, a key component in the jerky treats.

Officials with China’s regulatory agency, the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, or AQSIQ, suspended the firm’s export certificate as a result of the March 2012 inspection.

http://vitals.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/01/14/16511465-deaths-of-500-dogs-blamed-on-jerky-treats-fda-says

Dogs are den animals. They’re hard wired to believe they’re safest when their spine, neck and tail are pressed against something solid, preferably with a low ceiling. You find frightened dogs under beds, in closets, behind couches, under tables, in the floor of a moving car, because they’re seeking a small, confined space where they can’t be attacked off-guard. That’s instinct at work.

Like any technique or tool, including treats, crates can be misused. Denying access to a space dogs are genetically programmed to SEEK, because humans are uncomfortable with it, makes no sense to me. Once trained, you don’t have to keep the door on, if you don’t want to. Most dogs who were properly crate trained will continue to seek the crate out as a place of rest, a quiet bully stick, etc.

Every urban dog will spend time in crates in their lives, whether at the vet, groomer, trainer, or travel. Those experiences will be far less scary for the dog that sees the crate as a place of comfort and safety.

I treat all dogs in a new home as I would an 8 week old puppy. I do not trust them indoors. With a puppy, thankfully, there’s no habit of indoor elimination to break, at the same time I’m training them to eliminate outdoors.

With adult dogs that have a history of eliminating indoors, in the same environment, for more than 6 weeks, the behavior is habituated, and has to be “unlearned.”

On average it takes around 6 weeks to habituate a behavior, in dogs and people. If you’re teaching or ending more than 1 behavior at a time, it will likely take longer than 6 weeks. If the dog is over age 4, you don’t have professional coaching, you aren’t consistent, it could take a lot longer. It’s never less than 6 weeks. Don’t get fooled by a 2 week or 3 week “accident free” streak and ease off on the rules or the structure, or you’re setting you & your dog up for failure.

In a situation where a dog has eliminated indoors for 6 weeks or more in the same environment they will continue to live in, I suggest:

Scent

A dog’s ability to smell is far superior to ours. The fact that YOU can’t see or smell evidence of marking isn’t worth the risk of harboring a scent that might derail your training. Any residual scent is a siren’s song to a dog who has a habit of indoor elimination, and encourages them to repeat the behavior. It’s only fair to the dog (and critical to your success) that all trace of scent be removed at the start of training

Clean carpets specifically with pet odor removal in mind (carpets and dogs are a problem in general, IMO).

Launder ALL dog bedding, whether you’ve seen the evidence there or not. Remove any rugs you can for the duration of training

Anti-Icky Poo has no equal, when removing dog scent from surfaces you cannot launder or remove.

Do not risk remarking of surfaces, as it can thwart all the other work you’re doing. Start crate training before you clean.

#1 rule of house training: manage the dog.

Indoor elimination is 75% management, 25% actual training. You primarily teach a dog to never eliminate in the house by preventing it. The single fastest way to housetrain a dog is to prevent indoor, unsupervised, off-leash access to the house until there hasn’t been an indoor “accident” in 6 consecutive weeks. Keep your dog on leash, in your lap, or in their crate, at all times.

Give them leashed walks or supervised yard time every 4 hours.

Feed at regular times. Plan bathroom breaks to coincide with meals.

If a dog doesn’t eliminate indoors for 2 weeks, then there’s an “accident,” the clock starts over at zero.

Punishing a dog for indoor elimination doesn’t stop that behavior, it teaches the dog to do it when you’re not looking or out of sight.

Neutering a male dog can help considerably with marking behavior, but it won’t won’t solve the problem, and the change you see won’t happen overnight but over a period of months as the hormones dissipate in the dog. It’s usually helpful, and worth it for this reason among many others.

Teach dogs what’s expected of them, before holding them accountable.

To set the foundation for outdoor elimination, dogs need to consistently experience:

Regular, scheduled bathroom breaks, preferably on-leash. Not more than every 3 hours, the 1st week, every 4 hours the 2nd week. Do not wake a sleeping dog up to go outside (you should wake up a puppy). Take all dogs outside as soon as they wake up. Too many trips outdoors can confuse the issue. Ditto for outdoor play time, in the 1st few weeks.

Avoid playing with the dogs in the area you want them to use for outdoor elimination, if possible. At least for the 1st 6 weeks.

As soon as a dog eliminates outdoors, immediately take them back in the house for the 1st 2 weeks. The reward for outdoor elimination = you get to be in the house.

Make sure the dog has a clear way to signal they need to eliminate, if that comes up before a scheduled break. A bell suspended from the exterior door handle (inside the house) is fun and effective.

I highly recommend professional help with house and crate training, as these can make or break a dog-human relationship. At the very least , do your research.

Crate tip: Give dogs things to do in the crate, when they have to be in there for more than an hour. Stuffed, frozen Kongs, bully stix, Everlasting Treat balls, etc., are good distractions, and a good way to burn off some pent-up energy. Be sure whatever you give them will last for more than a few mouthfuls.

“Do you feed your dogs the many different kinds of raw meat you share on Raw (Food) Deals? Do you rotate or does it just depend on what’s on sale?

My vet (who supports the raw, meaty bone diet) told me not to mix meats in the same meal. Since I feed them red meat based kibble, I just always give them red meat. Thoughts?”

Deal on chicken breasts

I feed my dogs as many different animal proteins as I can, for the same reason I seek a wide variety of foods in my own diet. Feeding the same food for extended periods of time conditions the bacteria in the gut to be sensitive and become hostile (diarrhea, vomiting) towards unfamiliar food.

The irony in the “only feed 1 (dog) food to your dog. EVER” philosophy: Look at dogs living on the edges of human life, anywhere. They’re scavengers. That’s why they hang around. They’re designed to recycle what they find on the ground.

All of which suggests to me, it’s as unnatural for dogs to live on a single protein or food source, as it is for me.

I feed every protein source I mention in Raw (Food) Deals. Not all in the same week, or even the same month, necessarily. Which protein the canines eat for the week depends on what’s in the freezer, or what’s on sale. I buy in bulk, then defrost as needed.

$5 for (boiled) chicken thigh meat vs. $7 for 2 cans of "premium dog food"

Until the day I’m able to source & feed 100% pastured meat, this is the safest food supply I have access to. It’s cheaper than premium kibble or canned, and many times cheaper than prepared “raw diets.”

As for mixing proteins, I mix protein-based kibble with other fresh meat proteins all the time, and haven’t detected a problem. I imagine processed protein in the gut is likely treated very differently than fresh protein.

I rarely mix fresh meats in the same meal because I’m rarely feeding 2 types at one meal, and make it easy on myself by feeding everyone the same meal, proportionate to weight. I make exceptions if a dog has been consistently intolerant of a protein. 2 dogs out of around 100 have shown a consistent inability to digest chicken. Several dogs have been reactive to chicken, if it’s fed frequently, but tolerate it fine otherwise. Same for eggs.

For 12 years I’ve fed a minimum of 4 dogs, sometimes 9 – 12 in a day, including a huge variety of breeds, sizes, and 8 weeks to 16 years. What goes in comes out, so I experience an equal sampling of canine digestive processes (read: poop). People who feed their dogs a whole food diet tend to pay a lot of attention to poop, as it tells the story about how a food is tolerated in an individual. I can’t recall an experience where mixing proteins made a difference.

Individuals show taste preferences, but on the whole, visibly benefit from a fresh protein based diet, preferably with the dental benefits of raw, meaty bones. If you can get them to eat fruit & veg, all the better, but they don’t process cellulose (plant fiber), as I understand it, so it’s advisable to cook most vegetables or grind them. The pulp left over from juicing is supposedly good, too. Vegetable tolerance is high, desire to consume, not so much.

Then there are dogs like Simone & Sheila, 2 Pibble sisters I’m fostering, who I call goat bulls! They line up at my garden fence for spinach, artichoke, asparagus, chard, lettuce, oranges, certain grasses. They LOVE their protein, but can’t wait to forage on my garden bounty, too!

Aside from the proportion of processed food in the diet, in my experience, the biggest difference in how tolerant dog guts are to change is directly proportionate to the amount & variety of whole foods going through them on a regular basis.

I can change kibble or protein, or introduce a novel food source without a transition period, and without complications in my pack, because the diet changes frequently, and the gastrointestinal tract is accustomed to processing many different molecules.

As long as the ingredients are suitable for human-consumption, you’re doing the very best you can with what’s available, IMO. FYI, many products made for dogs, including some of the most expensive kibbles, raw mixes, and treats on the market, are NOT from human-grade ingredients.

Happy Feeding!

Dogs rarely “grow out of” nuisance barking. He could be bored, excited, or distressed. He could be claiming his territory, alerting his pack, or just trying to get attention. You can make changes in any of those behaviors, but unless you block as much of his view of the neighbors as you possibly can, the incentive will still be there. Making a behavior “stick” when the reward for the previous behavior doesn’t go away, is many, many times more difficult.

There are a variety of ways to address this, but first you want to manage your environment in such a way that it maximizes the effort you put forth to train your puppy.

In this case, managing the environment is as easy or as difficult as blocking your dog’s view of the thing(s) that stimulates them and causes barking. That could mean closing a curtain or moving a sofa away from a window; planting bamboo or shrubs next to the fence; hanging a well-placed sun shade or strategically placing a couple of patio umbrellas. There are any number of ways to create privacy in your yard, some you might already have at home

After you block you dog’s view to the extent you can, think about a water fountain, or a wind chime or other “white noise” to mask the sounds already associated excitement. Above all, when you catch your dog in the act, distract and instruct, don’t punish or scold.

Aversives (water spray to the face, bark collars, electronic fences) can have unintentional consequences in the form of new behaviors you hadn’t anticipated (dog becomes terrified of water, of the backyard, dog panics when left alone, etc.).

Watching quietly.

Teach a dog what you want before punishing for behavior you don’t want.

Failure to socialize a dog before the critical age of 16 weeks won’t just make a puppy difficult to live with, it could mean the difference between life and death, as stated in the October 1, 2008 edition of the Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA):

“While veterinarians are appropriately concerned about infectious disease in young puppies, the fact is that behavioral issues—not infectious diseases—are the number one cause of death for dogs under 3 years of age, according to the AVSAB. Veterinarians contribute to these behavioral issues when recommending pets be kept away from possible germs until their vaccine series is complete, the AVSAB stated.”

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) Position Statement on Puppy Socialization explains this further:

“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life.  During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal, or avoidance behavior.   For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that is should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.”

Socialization is the process of exposing your pup to everyday activities, people, places, and especially other dogs who you’re reasonably certain have been fully vaccinated (you can always ask). FYI, all shelter and rescue dogs in California have been vaccinated against most communicable diseases prior to adoption, by law.

Puppy play

Avoiding contact with dogs under 6 months of age who you aren’t sure have been vaccinated will go a long way in helping your puppy avoid most communicable dog diseases, including the dreaded Parvovirus. For this reason, dog parks, dog-friendly trails, beaches, public parks, and any where a large number of dogs are congregating are best avoided until the puppy series of vaccinations are complete.

If you’re ever in doubt about a location or situation, keep your pup’s paws off the ground (and wash/disinfect the bottoms of your shoes before you enter your car/house/yard). Very little opportunity exists for disease transmission when paws never touch the ground, and noses and mouths don’t come into contact with other dogs. I avoid all public dog water bowls, or at least empty and refill before my dogs partake, for puppies and adults alike.

If you personally come into contact with an infected dog (shelters, rescue kennels, adoption events, and pet fairs pose the most risk) it’s possible to transmit Parvo on your skin, clothes, and hair, so either avoid these or disinfect your clothing and your skin before you make contact with your puppy.

So why not avoid this threat all together and keep the puppy home all of its shots have been had, like my client’s vet suggested? Because dogs aren’t socialized during this time in their lives never make up that deficit. You can rehabilitate most dog behaviors, if you’re willing to dedicate the considerable time and effort necessary to effect lasting change, but the hard truth is, few people are willing or able to do the hard work required. Most remain uneasy about the potential liability, even when they’re generally able to control the dog.

The good news is, socialization, while being vital to your dog’s future, can be a lot of fun at the same time.

During the first 6 months of your puppy’s life, take them with you wherever, when ever you can safely do so. An unattended pup in a parked car, or tied up outside of a store or restaurant alone is at great risk for pet theft and/or subject to teasing. I strongly advise against doing either. However, if you know in advance you can have your puppy with you at all times safely (and have planned for house training considerations), take them along. Ask adults and kids over the age of 6 to pet or briefly hold your pup, and ask younger kids if they would like to pet them with 1 finger (with your immediate supervision!).

If you’ve ever tried to walk a dog that gets overly excited or aggressive at the sight of another dog, you know what a nightmare leash aggression can be to live with. You can likely avoid this by getting out and about with your pup as often as possible, and teaching them how much fun fun life can be on-leash!

After basic leash training at home, walk your puppy near playgrounds and elementary schools, and within 50 feet of busy bus stops and parking lots. Watch kids “going big” at a local skate park, or admire the parade of bicyclists and rollerbladers out on a Sunday jaunt at the beach or local park  Enjoy dog-friendly pedestrian malls, shops, and cafes together. Make “happy visits” to vets and groomers where your pup gets a delicious treat (you provide) from their personnel, but no “treatment.”

With a little effort and imagination, socialization can be educational, entertaining, and the best part of your week with your new puppy.