“Do you feed your dogs the many different kinds of raw meat you share on Raw (Food) Deals? Do you rotate or does it just depend on what’s on sale?

My vet (who supports the raw, meaty bone diet) told me not to mix meats in the same meal. Since I feed them red meat based kibble, I just always give them red meat. Thoughts?”

Deal on chicken breasts

I feed my dogs as many different animal proteins as I can, for the same reason I seek a wide variety of foods in my own diet. Feeding the same food for extended periods of time conditions the bacteria in the gut to be sensitive and become hostile (diarrhea, vomiting) towards unfamiliar food.

The irony in the “only feed 1 (dog) food to your dog. EVER” philosophy: Look at dogs living on the edges of human life, anywhere. They’re scavengers. That’s why they hang around. They’re designed to recycle what they find on the ground.

All of which suggests to me, it’s as unnatural for dogs to live on a single protein or food source, as it is for me.

I feed every protein source I mention in Raw (Food) Deals. Not all in the same week, or even the same month, necessarily. Which protein the canines eat for the week depends on what’s in the freezer, or what’s on sale. I buy in bulk, then defrost as needed.

$5 for (boiled) chicken thigh meat vs. $7 for 2 cans of "premium dog food"

Until the day I’m able to source & feed 100% pastured meat, this is the safest food supply I have access to. It’s cheaper than premium kibble or canned, and many times cheaper than prepared “raw diets.”

As for mixing proteins, I mix protein-based kibble with other fresh meat proteins all the time, and haven’t detected a problem. I imagine processed protein in the gut is likely treated very differently than fresh protein.

I rarely mix fresh meats in the same meal because I’m rarely feeding 2 types at one meal, and make it easy on myself by feeding everyone the same meal, proportionate to weight. I make exceptions if a dog has been consistently intolerant of a protein. 2 dogs out of around 100 have shown a consistent inability to digest chicken. Several dogs have been reactive to chicken, if it’s fed frequently, but tolerate it fine otherwise. Same for eggs.

For 12 years I’ve fed a minimum of 4 dogs, sometimes 9 – 12 in a day, including a huge variety of breeds, sizes, and 8 weeks to 16 years. What goes in comes out, so I experience an equal sampling of canine digestive processes (read: poop). People who feed their dogs a whole food diet tend to pay a lot of attention to poop, as it tells the story about how a food is tolerated in an individual. I can’t recall an experience where mixing proteins made a difference.

Individuals show taste preferences, but on the whole, visibly benefit from a fresh protein based diet, preferably with the dental benefits of raw, meaty bones. If you can get them to eat fruit & veg, all the better, but they don’t process cellulose (plant fiber), as I understand it, so it’s advisable to cook most vegetables or grind them. The pulp left over from juicing is supposedly good, too. Vegetable tolerance is high, desire to consume, not so much.

Then there are dogs like Simone & Sheila, 2 Pibble sisters I’m fostering, who I call goat bulls! They line up at my garden fence for spinach, artichoke, asparagus, chard, lettuce, oranges, certain grasses. They LOVE their protein, but can’t wait to forage on my garden bounty, too!

Aside from the proportion of processed food in the diet, in my experience, the biggest difference in how tolerant dog guts are to change is directly proportionate to the amount & variety of whole foods going through them on a regular basis.

I can change kibble or protein, or introduce a novel food source without a transition period, and without complications in my pack, because the diet changes frequently, and the gastrointestinal tract is accustomed to processing many different molecules.

As long as the ingredients are suitable for human-consumption, you’re doing the very best you can with what’s available, IMO. FYI, many products made for dogs, including some of the most expensive kibbles, raw mixes, and treats on the market, are NOT from human-grade ingredients.

Happy Feeding!

Dogs rarely “grow out of” nuisance barking. He could be bored, excited, or distressed. He could be claiming his territory, alerting his pack, or just trying to get attention. You can make changes in any of those behaviors, but unless you block as much of his view of the neighbors as you possibly can, the incentive will still be there. Making a behavior “stick” when the reward for the previous behavior doesn’t go away, is many, many times more difficult.

There are a variety of ways to address this, but first you want to manage your environment in such a way that it maximizes the effort you put forth to train your puppy.

In this case, managing the environment is as easy or as difficult as blocking your dog’s view of the thing(s) that stimulates them and causes barking. That could mean closing a curtain or moving a sofa away from a window; planting bamboo or shrubs next to the fence; hanging a well-placed sun shade or strategically placing a couple of patio umbrellas. There are any number of ways to create privacy in your yard, some you might already have at home

After you block you dog’s view to the extent you can, think about a water fountain, or a wind chime or other “white noise” to mask the sounds already associated excitement. Above all, when you catch your dog in the act, distract and instruct, don’t punish or scold.

Aversives (water spray to the face, bark collars, electronic fences) can have unintentional consequences in the form of new behaviors you hadn’t anticipated (dog becomes terrified of water, of the backyard, dog panics when left alone, etc.).

Watching quietly.

Teach a dog what you want before punishing for behavior you don’t want.

Failure to socialize a dog before the critical age of 16 weeks won’t just make a puppy difficult to live with, it could mean the difference between life and death, as stated in the October 1, 2008 edition of the Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA):

“While veterinarians are appropriately concerned about infectious disease in young puppies, the fact is that behavioral issues—not infectious diseases—are the number one cause of death for dogs under 3 years of age, according to the AVSAB. Veterinarians contribute to these behavioral issues when recommending pets be kept away from possible germs until their vaccine series is complete, the AVSAB stated.”

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) Position Statement on Puppy Socialization explains this further:

“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life.  During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal, or avoidance behavior.   For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that is should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.”

Socialization is the process of exposing your pup to everyday activities, people, places, and especially other dogs who you’re reasonably certain have been fully vaccinated (you can always ask). FYI, all shelter and rescue dogs in California have been vaccinated against most communicable diseases prior to adoption, by law.

Puppy play

Avoiding contact with dogs under 6 months of age who you aren’t sure have been vaccinated will go a long way in helping your puppy avoid most communicable dog diseases, including the dreaded Parvovirus. For this reason, dog parks, dog-friendly trails, beaches, public parks, and any where a large number of dogs are congregating are best avoided until the puppy series of vaccinations are complete.

If you’re ever in doubt about a location or situation, keep your pup’s paws off the ground (and wash/disinfect the bottoms of your shoes before you enter your car/house/yard). Very little opportunity exists for disease transmission when paws never touch the ground, and noses and mouths don’t come into contact with other dogs. I avoid all public dog water bowls, or at least empty and refill before my dogs partake, for puppies and adults alike.

If you personally come into contact with an infected dog (shelters, rescue kennels, adoption events, and pet fairs pose the most risk) it’s possible to transmit Parvo on your skin, clothes, and hair, so either avoid these or disinfect your clothing and your skin before you make contact with your puppy.

So why not avoid this threat all together and keep the puppy home all of its shots have been had, like my client’s vet suggested? Because dogs aren’t socialized during this time in their lives never make up that deficit. You can rehabilitate most dog behaviors, if you’re willing to dedicate the considerable time and effort necessary to effect lasting change, but the hard truth is, few people are willing or able to do the hard work required. Most remain uneasy about the potential liability, even when they’re generally able to control the dog.

The good news is, socialization, while being vital to your dog’s future, can be a lot of fun at the same time.

During the first 6 months of your puppy’s life, take them with you wherever, when ever you can safely do so. An unattended pup in a parked car, or tied up outside of a store or restaurant alone is at great risk for pet theft and/or subject to teasing. I strongly advise against doing either. However, if you know in advance you can have your puppy with you at all times safely (and have planned for house training considerations), take them along. Ask adults and kids over the age of 6 to pet or briefly hold your pup, and ask younger kids if they would like to pet them with 1 finger (with your immediate supervision!).

If you’ve ever tried to walk a dog that gets overly excited or aggressive at the sight of another dog, you know what a nightmare leash aggression can be to live with. You can likely avoid this by getting out and about with your pup as often as possible, and teaching them how much fun fun life can be on-leash!

After basic leash training at home, walk your puppy near playgrounds and elementary schools, and within 50 feet of busy bus stops and parking lots. Watch kids “going big” at a local skate park, or admire the parade of bicyclists and rollerbladers out on a Sunday jaunt at the beach or local park  Enjoy dog-friendly pedestrian malls, shops, and cafes together. Make “happy visits” to vets and groomers where your pup gets a delicious treat (you provide) from their personnel, but no “treatment.”

With a little effort and imagination, socialization can be educational, entertaining, and the best part of your week with your new puppy.

What most people fail to realize is that crates can actually offer a significant therapeutic benefit to dogs, because in most urban settings, they’re the closest thing to a “den” we can offer them.

Dogs are den animals. They feel safest when they can press the back of their neck, their spine, and their hindquarters against something solid, preferably under a low ceiling. Instinct tells them they cannot be attacked unexpectedly in that environment, and thus are able to experience deeper relaxation and sleep than is otherwise possible. That’s why many dogs will hide under a bed, in a closet, or behind a couch during thunderstorms or fireworks, or whenever they feel overwhelmed. I equate it to how the average human feels in their car, versus how we might feel in a movie theater or auditorium. In a nutshell, close, confined spaces make dogs feel more secure and less vulnerable.

Regardless, many guardians feel “guilty” for crating their dogs, or tell me there’s “no way” their pooch would tolerate a crate. If I can convince them to give it a try, and they introduce it in a canine-conscious way (never close a dog in a crate without a gradual introduction), most people discover their dog will happily volunteer to spend time in their crate, even when they’re home!

During a recent consultation in West Los Angeles, I recommended unrestricted crate access for an anxious, 5 year-old Staffordshire terrier mix named Daisy, as a way of lessening her overall anxiety. Her human’s immediate, incredulous reaction: “You want me to CRATE MY DOG?” While I explained the reasoning behind my suggestion, the husband pulled out the wire crate they’d used for house training, several years earlier. At my recommendation, he tossed a blanket inside, draped a large towel over the top (to make the open wire feel more den-like), and walked away. Daisy immediately sniffed the front, walked in, and plopped down! That was all the explanation necessary to convince her people to give this a try.

I recently learned they’ve since gotten her a plastic “airline” crate (far more den-like than wire crates) and an appropriately-sized bolster bed for Daisy to snuggle up against. For the last 2 weeks, their increasingly calmer girl has slept in her crate at night (her choice), and they’ve seen no evidence of her visiting the adjacent couch. Daisy’s never been permitted on the furniture, but several times a week for several years they’ve either found her asleep there, when they woke up in the morning, or saw evidence of her having been on the couch while home alone. This battle of wills wasted a lot of time and energy, and led her people to believe she was stubborn and intentionally misbehaving. In reality, all Daisy ever wanted was the security she’d been experiencing when pressed into a corner of the sofa. Now that she has access to her very own soft, secure space, she’s happy to sleep there instead.

In my opinion, the benefit dogs experience from access to a crate greatly outweighs any negative association humans might have with the concept. The type of crate used, where you place it, the type of bed you put inside, and how you go about introducing your dog to the crate can make a huge difference in how they react to the experience, Do your research or consult a professional for the best way to go about this.

Equally important is how you feel about your dog being in the crate. If you’re anxious, nervous, or feel guilty every time you place your dog inside, that unstable, weak energy can influence your dog, and create a needless negative association with what that could be their sanctuary.

Today is the beginning of Lent, a 6 week period in which many people seek to change or modify a behavior, in advance of the Easter holiday. Frequently, the focus is on sacrificing something you consider pleasurable, but it can also be a period for focusing on something you want to achieve.

For the next 6 weeks in The Pack Report, I will be writing about 4 dog behavior challenges I’m most frequently asked about during consultations: leash training, house training, crate training, and socialization. My goal is to provide weekly suggestions to help you improve and reinforce these aspects of your relationship with your canine companions. If you practice these new behaviors consistently, there’s a strong chance you will see lasting benefits, long after Lent is over.

My post this past Monday, “A Calm Start Leads to a Calm Walk with Your Dog,” was the 1st in the series on leash training, and should be the 1st consideration when examining what might be going wrong. If you or your dog begins the walk in a frantic, unfocused state, then that’s the energy you’ll be battling for a least some portion of the remaining walk, and often lasts until you’ve exhausted your pup, or your pup has exhausted you!

Next in the leash training series, I’ll address how to handle distractions when you encounter them with your dog on-leash. After that I’ll be talking about the various types of equipment available to make the walk more pleasant for you and your pup, how to incorporate basic obedience in your daily walk routine, and when and how to consider off-leash play for your dog.

Tomorrow I’ll begin my series on crate training, and discuss a few of the many reasons I’m an advocate. I’ll follow that with suggestions for how to properly introduce a dog to the crate experience, the different types and uses of crates, and how to transition a dog from a closed crate to an open one.

This coming Friday we’ll delve into house training, possibly the single most important lesson for urban dogs to learn, if they want to keep the home they have. No one enjoys living with a dog that relieves themselves inappropriately, yet some dog owners struggle with this issue for years before they seek professional help. Others give up and re-home their dog, or surrender it to a shelter, when they run out of patience. My hope with this series is to inspire everyone who shares their lives with a dog to know there are always solutions to this challenge, no matter how old your dog is, or how long they’ve been having “accidents.”

Next week I’ll debut the series on socialization. More often than not, socialization means the difference between a confident, relaxed dog, and one that is nervous or fearful around new people, new dogs, new noises, or in new situations. It begins the day a puppy is born, and continues throughout the dog’s life. We’ll discuss how to best socialize a puppy, even before they’ve had all of their shots, how and when to socialize your dog with other dogs, how to teach a dog to be relaxed and confident in public situations, and what to do when a new dog seems to be afraid of the whole world.

I hope you’ll join me for this six week journey, and let me know how the suggested techniques are working, for you and your canine companions.

The 3rd Annual Free Pet Emergency Preparedness Fair will be held this Saturday, Feb. 25, from 9 a.m. until 3 p.m. at Clover Park in Santa Monica.
The event is being hosted by the City of Santa Monica Office of Emergency Management Division; The American Red Cross of Santa Monica, Los Angeles Region; and the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Los Angeles (spcLA).
The event will offer a variety of events and activities for every type of pet and pet lover. Free identification micro-chipping of dogs, cats, and exotic pets will be available to the first 125 people who register at the fair. Low-cost pet vaccinations will also be available.
Dog training demonstrations, pet disaster preparedness tips, pet contests with prizes, and animals available for adoption will all be at this pet-centric event. Both animals and their human counterparts will provide entertainment. A wide range of human and pet emergency supplies will be available for purchase.
Humans and their pets are all welcome. Cats, rabbits, and other exotic pets such as turtles, iguanas, lizards, rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, and others must be in pet carriers. Dogs must be leashed. The public is requested to not bring pets in cardboard boxes, milk crates, or other improvised containers.
The highlight of the fair will be a pet contest for the pet(s) that most resembles their owner, largest, most unusual, smallest, most obedient, and most talented.
Actress Christina Moore will be “Mistress of Ceremonies.” A number of animal experts including Karen “Doc” Halligan, DVM, and other celebrity pet owners will be available to offer advice for keeping pets healthy and happy.
Fair-goers will see the first public emergency pet fair demonstration of BARKCODE®, a revolutionary new, affordable, nickel-sized, collar tag identification system that can be scanned with cell phones, tablets, or other mobile devices to connect a lost or injured pet to its owner or caretaker. Other fair sponsors and exhibitors will be on hand with free samples, literature, news about products, services, and general pet care
All events will be held at Clover Park, 2600 Ocean Park Boulevard (at 25th Street) in Santa Monica, rain or shine.
Free parking is available near Clover Park — look for directional signs. Although the Pet Emergency Preparedness Fair is a free event, food and beverages from some of the regions most popular food trucks will be available for purchase onsite.
For more information, visit www.smgov.net/oem or call the City of Santa Monica, Office of Emergency Management at 310.458.2263 during regular business hours or email paul.weinberg@smgov.net.

During our initial session, this pup worked herself into a state of high-excitement whenever the leash came out, long before it was attached to her collar. Because the family lives in a condominium in Ocean Park, this behavior has been reinforced up to 6 times each day, and the dog has been increasingly difficult to control on leash.

This is a common problem I find with clients who are experiencing undesirable behavior during walks. Most people assume it’s “normal” for a dog to become overly excited before every outdoor adventure, because that’s been their experience with a variety of dogs. Like many human “beliefs” about dog behavior, this is a misinterpretation, and probably at the root of at least 50% of the leash-related problems I encounter.

While it’s nice to see a dog perk-up at the mention of a walk with their master, if you’re experiencing excessive barking, lunging, or straining on the leash, this excitement is part of the problem. If you’d prefer a calm, peaceful walk with your pup, it’s vitally important that you start that calm experience from the moment the leash comes out, and maintain it as you gather your keys, the waste bags, put on your shoes and coat, etc.

If your dog is already in the habit of ramping up at every stage of your pre-walk routine, desensitizing them to this process is the 1st step. In between walks, practice taking the leash out, then putting it back where you keep it without placing it in on your dog, several times a day for a week. This will condition your pup to stop assuming the presence of the leash means they’re going outside. Their excitement level will gradually decrease, until they barely react at all when they see the leash in your hand.

Once your dog has stopped reacting at the sight of the leash, expand this exercise to include placing it on your dog, then immediately removing it and putting it away. Again, practice this a few times a day for several days, until the act of putting on the leash stops overstimulating your dog. This usually takes a week or less, but every dog is an individual, so your mileage may vary. Let your dog be your guide.

Continue to expand this exercise to include each of your pre-walk preparations, one at a time. Take the time necessary to complete each stage before moving on to the next challenge. The entire process may take several weeks to complete, but in the end, your dog will learn to associate walks with calm energy.

Next up: How to handle distractions while on-leash.

To my knowledge, most academic and other reputable veterinary medical authorities today follow the AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) 2003 study that recommended the following:

“Make sure that your dog completes the initial series of core vaccines administered at the puppy stage, as well as booster shots at one year of age. Following these one-year boosters, the AAHA Canine Vaccine Guidelines recommend that the distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus core vaccines be administered once every three years.”

Here’s a link to the article:  http://tinyurl.com/49fsac6

It went on to say:  “There is a history of yearly vaccination boosters, and some veterinarians do not feel it is prudent to change that recommendation just yet. However, the AAHA Canine Vaccine Guidelines reflect that there is growing support for extended duration of protection. Thus more veterinarians are vaccinating less frequently and more selectively.”

Of equal importance to the 3 year booster recommendations, this same study recommended AGAINST the following vaccines, EVER:

Giardia. Reason: no test is available for the disease; vaccine has not been proven to prevent infection, only reduces shedding.

Canine adenovirus-1. Studies found that the vaccine can cause visual impairment in dogs.

Coronavirus. “We’re not recommending it because the disease isn’t significant. The vaccine is safe, there just isn’t a disease to go with it.”

In the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA), the following was published in 2004:  “(The 2003 study) wasn’t the first time that veterinarians saw “every three years” in vaccination guidelines. In 1998 and again in 2000, the American Association of Feline Practitioners published a report recommending vaccinating adult cats against panleukopenia virus, feline herpesvirus-1, and feline calicivirus, every three years, rather than annually.”

Even more interesting to me, this same article says “Many veterinarians have responded to the three-year guidelines with resistance. ‘It was truly a bitter pill, and we did not take this well… At issue here is that the bitterness of the pill prevails. Despite growing acceptance of the guidelines, there is still considerable resistance.

“Veterinarians are resistant because, when one examines the services that veterinarians provide in the United States, Europe, and the United Kingdom, vaccination is at the top of the list for both cats and dogs. Our paradigm has been challenged, and it is gradually shifting as we look at alternative ways to select and use vaccines…”

Here’s a link to this article:  http://tinyurl.com/4mejuwr

Again, that was published in 2004. We’ve had 6 years of day-to-day experience that continues to support these recommendations. Experience is not equivalent to “challenge studies,” however.  Vaccine manufacturers (Bayer, Pfizer, et al), aren’t required to perform them for animals, and it isn’t in their financial interest to perform expensive tests that could negatively impact their bottom line.  Quite simply, if a study demonstrated that these “3 year” vaccines were good for the life of a dog (like most human vaccines are), they would sell a lot less of them, and so would veterinarians, their largest customer base.

The lack of data regarding the duration of protection for canine vaccines means manufacturer recommendations are based on a LACK of science.  They recommend a year because they have no proof it lasts longer.  They have no proof how long it lasts because they do not perform the tests necessary to establish a scientific basis for same.  The 1 year recommendations reflect the period the manufacturer will guarantee duration, and nothing more.  Overwhelming anecdotal evidence in 2011 suggests that dogs do not become ill when you eliminate annual booster vaccines, they get LESS ill.

Dr. Jean Dodds is a leading authority on the subject of vaccinosis in dogs. Her website is a good place to start: http://tinyurl.com/6hr36qv

Dr. Dodds’ vaccine protocols are here:  http://tinyurl.com/38c7sa

An article by Dr. Dodds about the diseases unnecessary vaccines can cause in dogs can be found here:  http://tinyurl.com/4r4yhwv

I have trouble seeing this as a matter of “opinion,” but rather ethics.  Vets and vet chains valuing their bottom line over the long-term health risks of unnecessary medicine. No doubt those same vets would be happy to “cure” the many ills unnecessary vaccinations cause.  For a fee.

A dog is a DOG.

Canis lupus familiaris.

It is NOT a “fur baby.”

It does not speak English. It speaks DOG.

You cannot warn a dog about consequences, or explain to them why you are taking away their allowance.

A dog does not have morality, does not believe in heaven, and does not fear hell or what his grandparents will say when they find out.

If you punish a dog in the afternoon for what it did in the morning, it has no impact at all.

Not so with a child.

Know how to read dog and know how to speak dog — it will save you a lot of time.

A dog eats on the floor and it eats dog food. As a rule, this is discouraged with children.

A dog needs a collar and a tag and it needs it to be walked on a lead for 30 minutes twice a day at the very least. Do this with a child and child protective service may be called.

A dog should sleep in a crate at night. Do this with a child and child protective services WILL be called.

Do not give your dog the remote control to your TV and expect it to change channels. It will eat the remote, and you will have a very expensive veterinary bill.

Do not give your dog a computer. It will not turn it on, but it will eat your couch because it got very bored because you did not understand that dog’s basic needs are NOT the same as a child’s (or a fish or an elephant or a parrot).

Do not give your dog a book. It will only eat it.

Do not expect your dog to crap inside the bowl. If you do, it will crap on the rug.

Do not send your dog to a public school; they will not train your dog for you. Instead, they will turn your dog over to the pound where it will be put down, if unclaimed, within 3-5 days.

For more on dogs and dysfunction, see >>

http://terriermandotcom.blogspot.com/2006/12/comedy-of-dog-shows.html

People who raise perfectly acceptable children may have dogs that are completely out of control.

Job One with a dog is to accept the dog AS A DOG.

A dog has different mental, exercise, social, and communication needs than a human.

It is NOT a child any more than it is a horse, or an elephant, or a squirrel or a fish.

A dog has a limited brain and the smartest dog does not think much better than a brain-damaged 4 year old. Accept this. A dog is not a child.

Dogs see colors differently than humans, and get most of their communication from scent. A dog is not a child.

Dogs are 100% fluent speakers of DOG but they generally only know 5 or 6 words of your language. A dog is not a child.

Dogs are social pack predators and meat-loving carnivores. They consider it normal to roll in shit and eat it too. They greet each other by sniffing butt, and they drink from the toilet if they have no other access to water because they do not have opposable thumbs to turn on a tap. Many dogs have strong prey drives and some will kill your neighbor’s cat as quick as you can say “Bob’s your uncle”

In short, a dog is not a child.

It is a dog.

Acceptance of this is the First Step to having a proper relationship with your dog.

I’m so incredibly flabbergasted by this video, it’s hard to know where to start.  In order to share it here, I needed a title, so I set out to accomplish that, and was deluged by an avalanche of possibilities:

1)  How NOT to pet a dog.

2)  Great way to get your face bit off.

3)  How human behavior leads to the execution of innocent dogs.

4)  Delusion and the art of misreading dog body language.

5)  Comments on a YouTube video that could save your life.

6)  When Rotties “purr” they typically close their eyes, their bodies go soft, and they tend to lean as much of their weight as possible against the nearest human.  They don’t stare at you intently, freeze, or turn their head away from the “affection.”

7)  STRESSED/ANGRY dogs do the opposite of #6.

8 ) When a dog gives you the “whale eye” (look it up) while growling, it’s a good time to stop what you’re doing and FREEZE.

9) The evening news will report that a “Rottweiler snapped and turned on the woman who adopted him 4 months prior for no reason.”

10)  Ignorance can be deadly.

If you’d like to see what a happy, “purring” Rottweiler looks like: